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A marble column topped with a statuette of Napoleon sits proudly on the bar at Brooklyn's Maison Premiere, a painstaking replica of the antique absinthe fountain that graces New Orleans' Old Absinthe House-identical in all but one aspect: This one actually operates. It's a fitting monument to the spirit, so soaked in tradition and myth even as it returns triumphantly after decades of banishment amid charges of madness. Wine Spectator's Jack Bettridge explains.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands August 23, 2011.
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