A marble column topped with a statuette of Napoleon sits proudly on the bar at Brooklyn's Maison Premiere, a painstaking replica of the antique absinthe fountain that graces New Orleans' Old Absinthe House-identical in all but one aspect: This one actually operates. It's a fitting monument to the spirit, so soaked in tradition and myth even as it returns triumphantly after decades of banishment amid charges of madness. Wine Spectator's Jack Bettridge explains.
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