Though a classicist at heart, the 68-year-old Georges Perrier, owner of Le Bec-Fin and its satellite restaurants in the Philadelphia area, believes that his cooking today is very different from what it was four decades ago. "It's like a new world. Like Columbus discovering America," he says. Wine Spectator's Sam Gugino explains.
Do you have a Wine Spectator magazine subscription? Save 50% on your Online Membership right now!