Credited with helping to steer French cooking away from nouvelle cuisine toward a more ingredient-focused model, superchef Joël Robuchon famously walked away from not one but two Michelin three-star restaurants in Paris (Jamin in 1993 and Joël Robuchon in 1996). After a self-imposed pilgrimage through the world of cookbooks and television, he returned to the kitchen in 2001, with Robuchon a Galera in Macau. Soon after, he opened the first L'Atelier du Joël Robuchon, in Paris, an haute-casual model for fine dining, then expanded the concept into seven other cities. Wine Spectator's Owen Dugan explains.
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