Bruno Davaillon may be the strongest proof of the persistence of French cuisine in America. He was poached from an Alain Ducasse restaurant in Las Vegas two years ago to run the kitchen at The Mansion on Turtle Creek, a bastion of new Southwestern cuisine in Dallas. One dish on the lunch menu that he shared with Wine Spectator is lifted from Davaillon's childhood on a farm. He ate chicken livers from an early age, especially in this dish made by his grandmother.
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