Some time ago, a young restaurateur approached Wine Spectator's James Laube at a wine event and excitedly began to describe his vision for his new place, particularly the wine list. Specifically, he wanted to know Laube's thoughts on what it took to assemble a Grand Award-caliber list. Building a Grand Award (GA) list can be dangerous, Laube suggested. It's not for everyone, on either side of the owner- customer equation. As they parted, Laube scribbled a reminder to him: GA = OOB, as in "out of business,"... if you're not careful.