Italian fine dining restaurants continue to open at a pace no other cuisine can match. And many--including some of those reviewed by Wine Spectator--are being opened by accomplished people with little nominal connection to the culture. While the food generally focuses on perfect ingredients and relatively simple preparations, these days, diners can expect everything from traditional to foreign dishes. But if you can let go of outmoded concerns like regional authenticity, you will find exciting food and wine lists that are Italian insofar as they can provide great pleasure.
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