Australian wine may lack the fashionable frisson the category once enjoyed, but in the past year more than 170 of the wines we tasted earned outstanding ratings of 90 points or higher on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, about one-third of them priced at $30 or less. Shirazes with richness and depth still dominate among the top wines, but change is in the air. Wine Spectator's Harvey Steiman reports.
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