If the ongoing restoration of the classic cocktail has taught us anything, it's that sterling drinks start with superior ingredients that have not been altered by processing. The great libations were born of squeezed fruit and simple syrups, not powdered preparations, the neoclassicists remind us with every shake and stir. And for the most part Wine Spectator's Jack Bettridge agrees. But in one case, he respectfully beseeches the purists: Don't get fresh with his gimlet.
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