One of the most exciting restaurants in Paris is helmed by a young chef named Daniel Rose-from Chicago, of all places. This is Spring's second incarnation. The first, lasting from 2006 to 2009, was a hit despite its location on a scruffy street near Pigalle. Rose, who studied and trained in France for eight years prior to opening his own restaurant, unveiled the new space in early 2010. Wine Spectator's Keith Newton explains.