You may have heard of umami-the fifth taste, after sweet, salty, bitter and sour-and read about it in this magazine. It is translated from Japanese as "deliciousness," and is perceived by many as a texture. Nevertheless, umami does not occupy the same status as the other tastes: When was the last time you heard someone bite into a burger and say, "This needs more umami"? Now you can change that. Wine Spectator features editor Owen Dugan explains.