The press has not been kind to Bordeaux recently. In May, The New York Times reported that to a "significant segment" of American wine lovers, the world's greatest wine region "is now largely irrelevant." In a September column, Wine Spectator's James Laube, turned off by the high prices for 2009 futures, bid "farewell" to Bordeaux. But one of the world's greatest retailers begs to differ. Galeries Lafayette, an immense Paris department store, has opened Bordeauxthèque, a vast wine emporium dedicated exclusively to Bordeaux. Wine Spectator's Peter Hellman explains.