The Médoc. Romanée-Conti. For all of the praise and prestige and premium prices associated with these names, we sometimes forget that they only denote strips of land. Why the fuss? Well, usually because of special climatic and topographical properties, soil, long cultivation of the crop and understanding of the specific needs of that crop in that place. In chocolate probably the most prestigious name is Chuao. Wine Spectator features editor Owen Dugan explains.