Critics charge that Romano Dal Forno has the same mentality as a Napa cult Cabernet producer: He makes big, powerful reds and charges an arm and a leg. His giant temple of a winery wasn't built with value wines. But it perfectly reflects the complex character of its creator who has turned a common wine into an aristocrat of price and prestige.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands September 13, 2010.
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