Today, the wine list at the Houston flagship is 3,500 selections deep, and guests are reaping the rewards of a mature wine program. Bordeaux includes 15 vintages of Château Mouton-Rothschild back to 1945 ($4,500) and 14 vintages of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou back to 1961 ($2,000), the latter purchased directly from the château. Burgundy has terrific range, from Domaine Perrot-Minot Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2002 ($190) in the north to Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet 1996 ($470) in the south. The Rhône is anchored by a 24-botttle vertical of Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage back to 1988 ($575), also ex-château. And they still have six bottles of the legendary Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réservé 1978 ($1,200) that have been aging in the restaurant's cellar since 1995.