For a spirit that is essentially colorless, odorless and tasteless, vodka foments enormous-and polarized-passions. The consumer market dotes on it. Some in the bibulous cognoscenti decry its lack of character. As for me, I firmly straddle the fence. It's not that I don't like vodka. It's just that I don't like it.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands June 29, 2010.
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