D'Amico and partner Simon Oren have several restaurants, and while Nice Matin does serve a threateningsounding Five Napkin Burger, the emphasis is on the fresh, simple dishes of the south of France.
Classic among them is pissaladière, a tart as ubiquitous in southern France as pizza in New York. In fact, it is similar to pizza. Discussing the regional variations, d'Amico says, "They do it with or without tomato, but it's always a yeast-risen dough, and it's all about the onions."
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands June 8, 2010.
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