Editor at large Harvey Steiman calls himself a wine agnostic. He doesn't care where a wine comes from. It matters little to him whether it is Old World or New World, Northern Hemisphere or Southern, if it delivers pleasure and behaves nicely with his food. He likes both delicate flowers and big boppers, as long as they feel balanced and leaves him with a smile. Count him in when a sommelier or retailer suggests something new, especially if the price seems right.