The 30 tons of Chardonnay tumbling into the grape press at Mumm Napa are the last of harvest 2009. It's a warm day in mid-September and winemaker Ludovic Dervin has to be a patient man. Consumers won't taste any of this freshly crushed juice as sparkling wine for at least two years if it's blended into Mumm's non-vintage brut, or as many as eight years if it's deemed worthy of the winery's top bubbly, DVX.
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