France's eminent brandy, Cognac, is so easy to like that even without knowing the tastes of the recipient, I am almost guaranteed gratitude. This isn't true of every spirit. Some can inspire rabid devotion in one person and a turned-up nose in another. A good Cognac's bouquet of flowers, fruit and nuts rarely fails to find a friend.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands November 24, 2009.
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