Much applause is due the strict constructionists who have done so much to win back the cocktail. Without the serious students and their punctilious insistence on reviving original recipes, the daiquiri and margarita primeval might be lost forever. Nevertheless, in this space I'd like to speak to a drink that brings me all the joy and has all the heritage of a classic cocktail, but requires no such formulaic exactitude: the highball.
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