
Loazzolo, Italy—Standing next to Giovanni "Gianni" Scaglione, 43, while he caressed the two draft horses that do all the plowing in his vineyard, I couldn't help but think about a recent column of mine praising producers creating wines informed by a "culture of tenderness.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands January 26, 2009.
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