Greg Melick fits a monocle to his eye and studies the labels on two dusty bottles of old Australian wine from his cellar. We are dining in Sydney at Bilson's—a restaurant that Melick invested in so that he might bring in his own wines (only owners can bring in wines to drink with dinner in Sydney).
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands September 15, 2008.
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