Chablis, located about halfway between Paris and Beaune, gives its name to a unique expression of Chardonnay. At their best, its wines are stony, complex and long-lived. But a challenging climate and profit-driven overproduction can result in thin, acidic whites with little depth or character.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands April 9, 2008.
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