My ears perked up when I heard it. "This wine is austere," said the taster. "And that's not a good word in my book." The other tasters nodded in agreement. Keep in mind that the knock against "austere" wasn't that it's uncommercial—which is doubtless true—but that austerity in wine is undesirable, even a flaw.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands February 21, 2008.
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