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for the Dec. 15, 2007 issue

See Also
How Greatness Happens
Making a Case for Champagne at the Table
The Best White Wine That You're Not Drinking
This Issue: A Benchmark Vintage From Italy

James Laube
Issue: December 15, 2007

Movie reviewers have it easy. They sit in a theater and report their reactions to what they see, well aware of a director's notoriety and awards (or lack thereof). Similarly, a restaurant critic's impression of a meal might be influenced not just by the food but also by the surroundings—a dining room's decor, the waitstaff, the wine list, the service.

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