The steak house is the most basic concept in restaurants: Buy meat, sear, serve. How difficult can it be to get it right? Pretty difficult, apparently. I checked out five New York City newcomers whose approaches ranged from bare bones to high concept, their menus from stick-to-the-grill to ambitiously chef-driven, their wine lists from predictable to intriguing.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands April 12, 2007.
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