MORNINGTON PENINSULA, Australia—"To name a thing is to make it real" is a telling existentialist notion. Neither Albert Camus nor Jean-Paul Sartre was present at the biennial Pinot Noir conference recently held in this narrow, bucolic comma of land that juts into the strait separating mainland Australia from Tasmania (Tassie to you, mate).
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands March 15, 2007.
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