The road to Hirsch Vineyards is as wobbly as a punch-drunk boxer, weaving and dodging its way up the steep slopes that rise above the Sonoma coast west of the Russian River. It's a long drive, and just when you think you're almost there, it turns out you still have a ways to go.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands November 15, 2006.
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