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It was midmorning in mid-July and Bibi Graetz was beating the dirt with a wooden stick as he walked through knee-high underbrush in the hillsides about 6 miles south of Siena. Graetz, dressed in a T-shirt, shorts and sandals, was afraid that he might run into a viper as he visited vineyards he is leasing for Casamatta, his good-value Tuscan red.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands October 31, 2006.
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