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Los Angeles boasts its share of ambitious restaurants where chefs push the envelope of what they can do, but Suzanne Goin has thrived on a different idea. Her restaurants—Lucques, A.O.C. and the Hungry Cat—don't try to dazzle diners with how fancy the food can be.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands May 15, 2006.
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