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Great wines are not just about location. Increasingly, they're about selection, and in the case of some wines, extreme selection. Many grapes fail to make the first cut. They're clipped and dropped in summer during various stages of a green harvest (the process where underdeveloped or immature clusters are removed).
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands December 15, 2005.
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