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Until it was dethroned a few years ago by shrimp, canned tuna was America's most popular seafood. But the typical canned tuna most of us eat, the kind from the supermarket that needs gobs of mayonnaise to mitigate the chalkiness, is as far removed from the luxurious olive oil—packed tuna from Italy, Spain and Portugal as bluefish is from bluefin.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands October 15, 2005.
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