When you first meet Gérard Bertrand, you wonder how he can make so many good wines in a region that has proved so vexing to so many high-profile vintners. The giant Skalli firm, makers of Fortant de France, seemed on the verge of putting all the pieces together, but never reached a qualitative critical mass.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands August 31, 2005.
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