Thomas Keller promised that the French Laundry would not change much when it reopened in May after a five-month renovation. He was wrong: At its best, it's even better. From a diner's perspective, the country house located on a shady corner in Yountville feels as cozy as it always did, and the procession of Keller's signature miniatures arrives at the table with the same quiet theatricality as before.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands November 15, 2004.
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