Thomas Keller promised that the French Laundry would not change much when it reopened in May after a five-month renovation. He was wrong: At its best, it's even better. From a diner's perspective, the country house located on a shady corner in Yountville feels as cozy as it always did, and the procession of Keller's signature miniatures arrives at the table with the same quiet theatricality as before.
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