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Paul Kahan grew up in Chicago at a time when fine dining meant crowded steak houses awash in maroon leatherette. His own Blackbird—sleek and modern, and as hip as the West Randolph neighborhood it anchors—is a direct descendant, though Kahan's cooking has evolved well beyond steak.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands October 31, 2004.
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