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When I was in Brussels a few years ago, I couldn't get enough of moules et frites—mussels simply steamed in white wine and seasoned with fresh herbs alongside French fries. With a glass of crisp Muscadet or a marvelous Belgian beer, what a delightful lunch it was! As I sopped up all those glorious juices from the traditional pot in which the mussels were served, I wondered, "Why don't Americans do this more often?" Ian Jefferds, owner of Penn Cove Shellfish in Coupeville, Wash.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands September 30, 2004.
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