When I was in Brussels a few years ago, I couldn't get enough of moules et frites—mussels simply steamed in white wine and seasoned with fresh herbs alongside French fries. With a glass of crisp Muscadet or a marvelous Belgian beer, what a delightful lunch it was! As I sopped up all those glorious juices from the traditional pot in which the mussels were served, I wondered, "Why don't Americans do this more often?" Ian Jefferds, owner of Penn Cove Shellfish in Coupeville, Wash.
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