My Dearest France ...
Issue: September 15, 2004
It's been a long time since I've written to you. And I know that you're not happy that I ran off to Italy for all those months. But believe me, I've never stopped thinking about you. Of course, you've been in the news lately and it's not been pretty, what with all your hand-wringing about how the New World is eating your déjeuner.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands September 15, 2004.