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Emeril Lagasse hunches over a frying pan in his home kitchen, a pose familiar to anyone who has seen him on television. Chatting amiably with a visitor, he lifts four halibut fillets from a thin film of olive oil in the pan, turns gracefully and transfers them to plates, carefully spoons on a delicately flavored relish of corn, tomatoes and cucumbers.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands August 31, 2004.
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