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My first inkling of what I like to call the "new purity" came a decade ago when I first tasted Domaine Leroy's 1992 Corton-Charlemagne from barrel. I always fancied that I knew what good Corton-Charlemagne should taste like.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands August 31, 2004.
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