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The sea urchins had been pulled from the water overnight by one of his three fishing boats. Now Luciano Zazzeri delivers them raw-blood-red and mingled with long strands of fresh tagliolini-to a table in La Pineta, his family's tiny restaurant set directly on the Tyrrhenian Sea at Marina di Bibbona.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands June 30, 2004.
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