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The Taste of the Present

Thomas Matthews
Issue: May 15, 2004

New Yorkers don't go to restaurants to feast on memories. Lutèce, once the archetype of French haute cuisine, and Gage & Tollner, an icon of the Gilded Age, both closed in February. Despite serving the city for a combined total of 166 years, they lost their hold on the here and now.

For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands May 15, 2004.

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