Dining in Los Angeles is finally getting serious again. Classic restaurants such as L'Orangerie, Michael's, Spago and Valentino have thrived. But for an embarrassingly long time, too many L.A. eateries have been guided by the theory that "you gotta have a gimmick," with some even sounding more like computer games than restaurants: Cobras & Matadors, the Hump, R-23, Boxer, Buddha's Belly.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands May 15, 2004.
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