As the town's bell tower tolls 2 a.m., winemaker Jean-Michel Gerin gets behind the wheel of his car and gears up for another long day in the service of Syrah. Yet he's not up this early to tend his vines in Côte-Rôtie, above his winery in the Northern Rhône commune of Ampuis.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands December 15, 2003.
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