Pigs, Salt & Glory
For generations, Carnicas Joselito has made the best vured hams in Spain
The man behind Spain's most renowned ham strides down the hallway of a featureless factory in a flash of red suspenders, a cell phone tucked between his ear and his shoulder. José Gomez steps over crates and around pillars without breaking stride, leafing through a sheaf of papers and carrying on an animated conversation as he goes.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands November 15, 2003.