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In the 1950s, when I was a kid living on the west side of Buffalo, N.Y., there was a poultry shop right next to my elementary school. When Mom picked out a chicken for dinner, it was still clucking. And when she cooked that bird it had a real down-home flavor with lots of character.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands September 30, 2003.
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