Jean León's Challenge

Thomas Matthews
Issue: June 30, 2003

In 1949, a young Spanish stowaway, without money or legal papers, found his way to New York, and a job washing dishes at Rockefeller Center. Less than a decade later, he owned the most successful restaurant in Los Angeles, a popular haunt of politicians and movie stars, called La Scala.

For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands June 30, 2003.

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