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Warmer weather not only brings an abundance of hard-shell blue crabs but signals the season when these crabs lose those shells and, for a very short time, become soft-shell crabs. With soft shells, you don't have the tedious (and messy) work of picking through shell and cartilage to get to the meat.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands May 15, 2003.
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