Piercing, haunting aromas like shadows--first smoke, then apple and mineral--introduce this severe, no-compromise white. Sleek and focused, it shares only a hint of the quince, dried apricot, forest floor and mineral embedded in its steel framework. Subtl —Bruce Sanderson
Amazing mouthfeel to this ultrarich and supersilky white Burgundy. Full-bodied, it displays loads of personality, with floral, dried apricot, perfume, late-harvestlike notes, and the texture is to die for as this balanced beauty curls around the palate an —Per-Henrik Mansson
This could be the wine of the '97 vintage in Chablis. A seamless work of art, simply mind-boggling in its sheer balance. Medium- to full-bodied, it drapes a curtain of silk on the palate. Lovely fruit, earth and mineral, too, but it's the texture that is —Bruce Sanderson
Very ripe and rich, this multicounty-sourced California Chardonnay reserve wakes up the taste buds with its layers of fig, tangerine, cedary oak and spice, culminating in a long, complex aftertaste. Drink now through 2004. 2,500 cases made. —James Laube
This red makes a statement. Fresh, bold and extravagantly oaked, exuding vanilla, coffee and toast elements, backed by a core of rich, concentrated plum and black currant. Lovely acidity keeps it all lively, and the long finish bodes well for the future. —Bruce Sanderson
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