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More than $30

Mar. 03, 2003: H. DÖNNHOFF Riesling Spätlese Nahe Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle 2001 (97 points, $48)

A beautifully understated Spätlese from Germany's terrific '01 vintage, this has subtle power, density and length. The passion fruit, sweet corn, berry, fennel and mineral notes are layered and just keep coming at you. Superbly balanced, it seems effortl —Bruce Sanderson

Feb. 28, 2003: APALTAGUA Carmenère Colchagua Valley Grial 2000 (87 points, $35)

Alvaro Espinoza helps make this wine at this Chilean winery. This Carmenère is fresh and ebullient, with lively raspberry fruit, and a fleshy, round finish where the sweet fruit and smoky notes linger. Drink now. 422 cases made. —James Molesworth

Feb. 20, 2003: JOSEPH PHELPS Chardonnay Napa Valley Ovation 2000 (89 points, $44)

Fresh citrus, hazelnut and creamy fig flavors are elegant and well-balanced, building in intensity and complexity on the finish. Drink now through 2006. 1,500 cases made. —James Laube

Feb. 19, 2003: STAG'S LEAP WINE CELLARS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley S.L.V. (92 points, $100)

Another fine '99 from Stag's Leap, the S.L.V. is firm and intense, a muscular style, with cedary oak dominating the chewy core of earthy currant, anise, tobacco and sage. Finishes with thick, integrated tannins; needs short-term cellaring. Best from 2005 —James Laube

Feb. 18, 2003: SAINTSBURY Chardonnay Carneros Reserve 2000 (90 points, $35)

This California Chardonnay is elegant and complex, weaving together a subtle array of ripe peach, apricot, dried fig and pretty, vanilla-scented oak. The best part is the finish, where the delicate flavors linger with vibrancy. Drink now through 2006. 1,5 —James Laube

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