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More than $30

Oct. 06, 2003: CHARLES ELLNER Brut Champagne 1995 (95 points, $58)

From an excellent vintage comes this gorgeous Champagne. A cornucopia of toast, coffee and citrus aromas and flavors, all matched to a light body and supple texture. There's an underlying mineral note that adds dimension, and it just keeps coming at you o —Bruce Sanderson

Oct. 02, 2003: CHARLES HEIDSIECK Brut Champagne Champagne Charlie 1985 (97 points, $125)

This old Champagne is still a powerhouse. Full-bodied, rich and mature, evoking smoke, coffee, biscuit and a nutty, oxidative note, yet still very firm and vigorous, with intensity and concentration. Terrific finish. It needs food such as rich fish dishes —Bruce Sanderson

Sep. 26, 2003: JEAN-LOUIS CHAVE Hermitage 1999 (95 points, $129)

The father-and-son team of Gérard and Jean-Louis Chave currently handles the wine at this domaine, which Rhône lovers know as one of the region's best. The '99 Hermitage is rich and ripe, full-bodied, with great sweet fruit character. Lovely, thick, att —Per-Henrik Mansson

Sep. 24, 2003: E. GUIGAL Hermitage 2000 (97 points, $60)

The '00 Hermitage from this venerable Rhône producer is ultrarich and ultrathick. A full-bodied, stunningly sweet-tasting Northern Rhône, it delivers a ripe mouthfeel and plenty of fruit, mineral, and toasted, smoky character. Long, balanced finish. Gre —Per-Henrik Mansson

Sep. 20, 2003: PENFOLDS Shiraz Barossa Valley RWT 2000 (95 points, $69)

Another of Penfolds' flagship reds, the RWT rates classic in the '00 vintage. Rich in character and aristocratic in structure, a noble red that wears its subtle cherry, blackberry, chocolate, pepper and sweet spice flavors on a polished frame like a bespo —Harvey Steiman

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